The Relationship Between the Molecular Structure of Surfactants and Their Efficiency in Enhancing Cleanability and Biocompatibility in Skincare Products
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.54097/j2kga845Keywords:
Surfactants, Molecular Structure, Interfacial Tension, Cosmetic Science, Biosurfactants.Abstract
Surfactant molecular architecture—head-group charge/size, alkyl chain length/branching, and ethoxylation degree—dictates interfacial behavior and skin compatibility. We systematically reviewed studies (2015–2025; PubMed, Web of Science, ScienceDirect) comparing anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, nonionic, and biosurfactants in cosmetic-relevant systems. Evidence shows (i) cleansing efficacy scales with packing parameter and critical micelle concentration (CMC), while irritation correlates with protein denaturation indices and transepidermal water loss (TEWL); (ii) anionics with C_12–C_14 chains and high zein values cleanse efficiently but raise irritation risk; (iii) amphoterics (e.g., CAPB) and nonionics (e.g., Laureth-23, APGs) reduce TEWL increase by 20–40% versus SLS at matched soil removal; (iv) biosurfactants offer superior biodegradability but face cost and batch-to-batch variability. We outline structure-guided formulation rules—optimized HLB (10–14) and mixed micelles with amphoterics—to balance cleansing and dermatological compatibility.
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